Measuring in at the second deepest canyon in the world, our experience of this amazing place attests to its sheer inclines and declines. Mike and I were able to partake in a 3 day, 2 night hiking experience through the canyon with a guide. Read the long but exciting narrative for the full account (or look at pictures).

Day 1 - A 6 hour bus ride takes us from Arequipa to our final destination of Cabanaconde. The bus ride was in itself spectacular as we passed mountain scenery, barren flat lands with sporadic groups of alpacas, and many small villages based within the canyon. Our guide book mentioned that the local women wear bright color clothing but don’t enjoy being photographed. So on the ride out I was shy in taking pictures but did manage to ask one elderly lady how she made her clothing. She indicated everything was done with a sewing machine and hand (note pictures for the detail in the clothing) and LOTS of work. What else struck me is even the young women not wearing the traditional outfits wore the hats.

The canyon is also amazing in its beauty for how it depicts the terracing the farmers created. Being winter in Peru the fields were brown, I can only imagine the additional splendor of spring or summer with full fields. At our one extended stopping point during the bus ride we were able to try some alpaca cheese, which was rather dry but very good.

Upon arriving at our destination, the small town of Cabanaconde, we begin our decent to Llahuar (a lodge) at the canyon floor. The first couple hours I was enthralled by the scenery and the unfamiliar sight of mules passing us with backs burdened at times with people and at other times commodities. However, by hour 3 of continued decent we began to care less about the external and more about the internal. Legs shaking we were not completely convinced we would make it to our destination up right. Not a good sign as we were anticipating a 10 hour hike the next day.

Just as the sun was setting (at 6:00pm) and 4 hours of hiking brought us to our remote canyon lodge. No electricity, dinner cooked over open fire, and huts with rock floor we were initiated into rural life. Without the modern around us we were able to sit back and enjoy stars that definitely made up for the lack of artificial light.

Day 2 - Awake by 6am we first decide our sore bodies need a dip in the thermal heated pools by the river. A breakfast of banana crepes and coca tea we start our trek by 8:30. Despite attempts to set our guide straight that NO way would we actually survive a 10 hour trek (based on yesterday’s performance) we head out on our initially planned route. Our guide reassures us that it is possible to hike all day, if only a person remains tranquillo. This only referred to our pace and NOT the intensity of the trek (as we would later learn). Heading into an off shoot of the canyon we begin an assent as the canyon floor becomes lusher. Our committed scenic route followed a water canal despite at times a multi hundred foot drop just inches from the narrow path. To accentuate my point, at one point our guide decided it would be safest for us to be tied together as our shared path with the water canal became 3ft wide. Attempted pictures do not do this justice but the adrenaline felt equaled that to bungee jumping.

After 5 hours of hiking and at one point the guide carrying Mike’s pack, we reach the back village of Fure where we decided to take lunch and rethink our plan. Our initial plan was to hike to a waterfall at which was a 3 hour round trip from this point. Being 1:30 and still needing to hike in the opposite direction towards our sleeping destination we decided best to skip this natural wonder. So with that we missed the waterfall and headed to Sangalle (the Oasis), a VERY popular tourist spot. This next leg of the journey took an additional 5 hours of hiking and we show up at our destination well after dark. Along the way our guide definitely earned the money we paid as he offered head, neck, and back massages in route, educated us on tactics of being meditative, proper breathing (obviously we must have sounded labored), provided us with random facts of Inca medicinal techniques and local way of life, and brought us dinner fireside at the lodge we stayed at (see pics - lodge was rugged and fireside means campfire).

Random fact: Coca leaves (yes the same plant that cocaine is made of) are supposed to help with numerous aliments but the one we were told to use it for was to prevent altitude sickness. This certainly could have worked as I felt no effects from the altitude (well maybe extreme fatigue but this could have been from hiking) but also had no other effects from the coca leaves either (despite them sitting in my check for 3 hours). Mike, coca leaves or not, continued to feel the effects of our upward assent during portions of the day.

Despite surviving our 10 hour day, the last day still loomed in front of us. The climb back out of the canyon is notorious.

Day 3 - Despite many other groups getting up by 2 am to get an early start, we decided it best to sleep. So using my cold as an excuse we sleep until 5:45 ( actually slept thru our 5:00 alarm). With the panic of oversleeping we jump out of bed and hit the trail with no breakfast. 3 hours and 40 minutes of a vertical climb and only an orange a piece could explain why at the top we both felt sick to our stomachs and thoroughly spent. Tears came to our eyes as our guide congratulated us on our accomplishment. And our guide again proved invaluable as he got us front seat tickets (slightly more leg room) for the 7 hour bus ride back to Arequipa.

While waiting for the bus, I was able to capture a local celebration. Not sure the purpose but the band played for 2 circuits of the town square. Notice the bread in the flowers! And I got slightly bolder at asking a local woman if I could take a picture of her clothing.

Back in Arequipa we treated our selves to a shower and then an amazing meal at more upscale restaurant specializing in local food (getting both an appetizer and dessert) with a grand total of 20 dollars spent.

July 31st
Welcome to Peru!

August 2nd
Hello Pisco!

August 3rd
Islas de Ballestas

August 5th
Arequipa

August 6th - 8th
Cayon del Colca

August 10th
Puno

August 11th
Lake Titicaca

August 21st - 24th
Cusco and Pisac

August 25th - 30th
Hiking to Machu Picchu

Summary of Peru and Bolivia