Aug. 25 (Day 1): This is the start of a 4 day / 3 night 33km hike towards a highly anticipated viewing of Machu Picchu. Our day begins with waking up at 4:00 with a 4:45 pick up from our tour company. To hike the Inca trail, one must go with a local tour agency. This agency is then responsible for purchasing a pass from the very limited number available daily (500 are given out daily). This number may appear large but to get a spot we had to book 3 months ago, and still only had limited options for which day had openings. Pickup was in Cusco, but the Inca trail starts in the northwestern portion of the Sacred Valley, about a 2.75 hour drive away.

The group at the start of the trail.

Our group consisted of 9 people from the USA, Argentina, Australia, and Canada. All being of similar age, interests, and fitness levels, the 4 days spent together was part of the magic of the trail. Added to this group of 9 people were 2 guides, 1 cook, and 12 porters. These men were amazing (especially the porters and the cook). As we struggled up and down the mountains fighting altitude and long days of hiking, they carried 50lbs of weight on their back (my pack was only 20 lbs). They were burdened down with food, sleeping tents, meal tents, propane tank, table & chairs for meal times - well the crazy list goes on and on. Actually, the more fascinating fact was that many of these men were over the age of 40 (some actually being in their 50´s). Meals provided were 4 course affairs, in addition to snacks and tea time.

The team.

Highlights of the day included; starting our trek next to Rio Urubamba (a river), a stop at Llactapata (Town on Hillside - referring to Inca ruins), views of snow capped Nevado Veronica, and getting our first taste of Inca steps as we progressed our way through a Polylepis woodland and towards our first campsite. Thankful for the hot water provided, a quick sponge bath was completed prior to converting to clean sleeping clothes and adjusting to the rapidly cooling temperatures. The amazing starry night was the perfect end.

Despite the long day, this trek was lots easier than our previous jaunt in Canyon de Colca. We now fully appreciate the necessity behind acclimatization before attempting physical exertion at altitude.

Mike and Andrea at Dead Woman's Pass

Aug. 26 (Day 2) Up at 5:45 am and hiking by 7:30 (as time was taken this morning for the whole group, porters included, to introduce themselves). A full day of hiking included over taking both Dead Woman’s Pass at 13,828 ft and a second pass at 12,959ft with a decent to 11,483 in between. Scenery was beautiful and better descriptive via photos. Educational and cultural stops included the Inca ruins of; Sayaqmarka (Dominant Town) and Phuyupatamarka (Town above the Clouds). The later was a religious site of which ceremonial baths could be viewed. By the end of the day the weather took a turn for the worse and clouds (with light rain) rolled in. This is rare for the dry, winter season. By the end of this day, the need for walking sticks became apparent. For us the descents were felt more physically later than the multiple accents.

Aug. 27 (Day 3) Only a half day of hiking which means we got to camp by lunch and settled in. Limited morning views due to poor visibility since the clouds and rain remained from the previous day. Highlights of this day included the opportunity to take a hot shower (getting out of clothes that hadn’t really dried from the previous day) and a side trip to the Inca site of Winay Wayna (luckily the afternoon cleared).

Start of hike on last day at 3:37AM

Aug. 28 (Day 4) Last day of hiking and our hopes were high as we awoke at 3:30am (a full 1/2 hour earlier than necessary as Andrea needed to use the restrooms). The morning started out clear and stars could be viewed in the pre-dawn sky. Breakfast of cake was supposed to be a treat, but really left us in want of more nutritional intake. We were on the trail by 5am with conditions remaining good. We got a good place in line at the guard post which opens at 5:30. On the 1 1-2 hour trek towards the Sun gate (location of postcard perfect views of Machu Picchu), conditions steadily start declining. No rain, but clouds rolled in, significantly limiting visibility and access to views of the surrounding mountains. Needless to say that at the most stunning lookout point of Machu Picchu all we saw was white!

Andrea and Mike at Machu Picchu

Fighting crushing disappointment, we continue the trek to Machu Picchu and continue on with our tour. Thankfully, the clouds start to lift and once in the ruins are able to appreciate this ancient (500 to 600 year old) royal city. A highlight of the day was the climb up Wayna Picchu (the mountain behind Machu Picchu in most pictures) with crazy steep, narrow steps as our path (of course these were provided by the Incas). Clouds remained sporadic, but occasionally lifted enough to glimpse quick peaks of Machu Picchu from our perch at the top of this mountain. Due to lack of sleep and proper food earlier, our experience of this magnificent place was tainted by physical needs pushing to be felt. For very interesting information about Machu Picchu and the Inca trail please click the following links:

Peru - Hiking the Inca Trail
Machu Picchu

By 12:30 we had completed our tour of Machu Picchu and as a group we headed to the scenically located town of Aguas Calientes for our last lunch together. A 2 hour train ride to the quaint town of Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley, is where we ended up spending the night. After a tasty meal at Hearts Cafe ( a cafe which donates all proceeds to local area needs), we decided to crash early.

Aug. 29 & 30 - Back to Hearts Cafe for breakfast and then a quick tour of the Ollantaytambo ruins for Andrea, while Mike waited in the towns main square. 2 1-2 hours later we are back in Cusco. It is now time to start getting the final chores (laundry, sending souvenirs home, emails, etc.) done before heading to Lima and then off to South Africa. One last restaurant to mention was our dinner at Nuna Raymi, a recently opened, family owned restaurant committed to the simplicity of life and the enjoyment brought with great food at good prices. Here we met Victor, one of the sons who helps run the restaurant. Through his passion, he got us interested in the possibility of volunteering in Iquitos (an isolated Amazonian town) with Dr. Adams (same man that inspired the movie Patch Adams). The groups focus is to spread love and encouragement via clowning, outreach (painting houses), and seminars. They hope to open a hospital-clinic in the near future. If any of you think this sounds appealing (or if you need some light encouragement to participate) please contact us and we will get you the necessary info.



Peru Journal Entries

July 31st
Welcome to Peru!

August 2nd
Hello Pisco!

August 3rd
Islas de Ballestas

August 5th
Arequipa

August 6th - 8th
Cayon del Colca

August 10th
Puno

August 11th
Lake Titicaca

August 21st - 24th
Cusco and Pisac

August 25th - 30th
Hiking to Machu Picchu

Summary of Peru and Bolivia

Stats

site updated:
october 19th, 2008

from:
milwaukee,
usa

days traveled:
275

countries:
16

flights:
24

miles flown:
26785

pictures taken:
7468