We arrive in Lusaka, Zambia after a short flight from Johannesburg, South Africa. We quickly decide that the best option is to push on towards South Luangwa National Park. So despite hitting our bunks at 11pm we are up the next morning at 3:30 with aspirations to catch the first bus east. And that is how we find our selves leaving Lusaka at 6:45am on a local bus (needless to say we spent 1.5 hours sitting on the bus to leave). After a 7 hour bus ride to the last town on paved road we opt to take a taxi the remaining 2.5 hours (as local transport could have taken any where from 6 to 12 hours). Passing villages made of reeds and/ or mud blocks, women balancing huge loads on their heads, bicycles more common as the attempted means of transport, and children running out waving at the taxi as we speed by kicking up huge dust clouds; all this confirmed my stereotypical views of what Africa would look like.

Dirty, fatigued, and slightly disoriented we arrive at Flatdogs camp at 5:00pm. Our chosen safari camp is located on the opposite side of the river bank from the National Park. Picked months before, for the opportunity to tent on tree platforms next to the river and wildlife. This place was the reason we have lugged our tenting gear half way around the world.

We were not disappointed.

We quickly make camp up on a platform about 15 feet off the ground and were welcomed to the site by our friendly neighbors. Our tree was shared by a family of monkeys. We were in love with this place instantlly.

Our first safari drive is planned for the next morning with an anticipated departure at 6am. Hoping to get some sleep, Mike excitedly wakes me up at 3:45 am (admitting that he hasn't slept yet) to point out an elephant noisily eating from the next tree over and 2 huge hippos looming directly below. We were fascinated and in total awe. Do game drives actually get any better is our question. We soon find out that they can and do.

To keep this journal entry short I plan on summing up our days at Flatdogs - this is to keep the gushing at a minimal since our time here was absolutely amazing. I try to describe our feelings and experience by referring to the movie Jurassic Park. It is the scene where the people first arrive to the island and find that dinosaurs exist, viewing them with speechless amazement and joy. This is us during the whole 6 days of seeing the African wildlife.

The most amazing day of safari viewing was as follows; Within minutes of driving into the park we spot a hyena, literally minutes later are able to watch a leopard for 10 minutes walking through a ravine and then being chased off by baboons, next comes our up close spotting of 2 female lions that results in our guide needing to rev the engine as the young lioness threateningly approaches within feet (3-4) of our open safari vehicle (literally NO barrier between her and us), followed by spotting a tree full of vultures waiting for the old male lion below to give up his remains of a baby buffalo, next stop is at a drying water hole where we watch hundreds of small catfish getting snatched up by a huge crowd of storks and fish eagles (which are similar to the American bald Eagle), and then the climax of spotting a pride of lions with a recent kill of cape buffalo.

The pride consisted of 5 cubs about 8 months old, 4 females , and 1 juvenile male. All this was spotted in-addition to herds of elephant, zebras, impalas, puku, kudu (the male being one of our favorite animals), numerous types of birds, and whole groups of hippos (in the river). The most amazing thing was all this was spotted before lunch. This is NOT a typical safari experience and the best thing is that much of the day we were the only vehicle. Other highlights of the week's game drives included a night drive where a leopard was spotted in the tree with its kill, a rock python, the adrenaline experiences of elephants trumpeting at our vehicle in warning for getting too close, numerous spottings of various baby animals, and killer sunsets.

This does not capture the free enjoyment during our days and nights at the safari camp. Spotting giraffes eating from trees within feet of tent and the pool, the daily occurrences of elephants in the campsite often delaying tasks (needing to wait until they move along or at least taking a long detour around them), being stalked by a male baboon for the loaf of bread I was carrying (actually this was scary), having frogs and lizards in the bathroom, watching a group of banded mongoose chase the camps dogs, falling asleep to the loud calling of hippos (which sounds like a fat man laughing) and waking to the buzzing of heard but not seen bees that infested our tree, and the experience of needing to pee off of the tree platform in the middle of the night because hippos are eating below.

Yes, we have fallen in love with Zambia and the South Luangwa National Park (and special thanks to everyone at Flatdogs for the great food and the wonderful hospitality). It was hard to leave , but Victoria Falls was next on the itinerary.

September 16th - 23rd
South Luangwa National Park

September 24th - 25th
Victoria Falls, Zambian side

September 27th - 30th
Canoeing Safari near Lower Zambezi National Park

Zambia country summary